Münch(e)ner Freiheit: Munich is not Berlin

Mia san mia
Mia san mia…

Reached Munich on the motorway coming from the North, and if you are lucky with the weather, then… well, then you have one of the most beautiful panoramas in Germany right in front of you – Munich spread out in front of the Alpes in the background. Wonderful. And if you are able to bear the special warm Föhn days this panoramic view just leaves you just speechless.

Oh, speechless I have been as well. Not because of the panorama, although for a mountain girl like me it is thrilling still. It has been because I nearly walked into Reinhold Messner. Incredible –
had just been overwhelmed, have not been able to say any word, neither a whispered ‘Hello’.
But, had the chance to notice that he appeared to me like someone who is able to climb up the next mountain right away. Ah, would have asked him about the reason to be in Munich… special training? Special treatment? Anti-wrinkle Bavarian Cream? And some questions about his last museum on the Kronplatz and his alphabet, will it be continued? And so on and so on… Luckily,
did not loose speech the following days, and had the chance to listen to the warm Bavarian sounds and: Noticed that I myself suddenly tended to use Bavarian again.

Reason to be there? A new fair, a second satellite to the Paper Positions Berlin. Location:
Old Bavarian State Bank. The fair itself, nice, mostly fresh, new art for Munich – and well, yes,
had at least one fab there: Axel Milberg, with his typical ruffled hair. Good to see that there are
actors who just look like they are… And a good opportunity to meet galleries and people from
other cities you would never meet during the year. Next year, same place –
another Paper Positions in Munich.

In the same building, a fancy new hotel opened lately – the LOVELACE, a pop-up hotel for two years. I really do not know why the Süddeutsche Zeitung hyped it so much. Uncharmingly installed furniture, objects and neon lights, metal all over, looked like hammered into the building. To put up neon signage is a good idea – but totally ignoring the structure of buildings is just disgusting in my eyes. By the way – more examples to be found around the Maximiliansplatz – is nobody out there who told them about overall architectural impression? Or is it a new kind of modern bad taste, designed to be fashonable? But you do not want to be trapped with your fashonable pumps outside in the dark and nearly fall the stairs all over – downstairs – do you… A bit beasty I would say ‘typical men’s design’ or just: ‘Never tested’. I was wondering if not even the transvestite/ transsexual receptionist tested the stairs…Well, obviously the critic who praised the hotel is a) a very young one and is rating just everything that is new and different in town as hip, b) sponsored by the hotel / designers/ investors or c) has been drunk or drugged. I have to admit, did not test the rooms…

And this idea with the 1,500 seats Chinese restaurant at the Stachus… perhaps it will be the new cantina then for the Chinese white collar workers who will take over the Bayerische Landtag.
Or for the ones who still believe in digging for clean coal, or – thirdly – it is just a plan to make
Munich inhabitants ‘love’ Chinese food? Food by the way has been none of the fair’s services, at least a good bar serving small dishes has been right across the street at the entrance to the 5 Höfe. Literaturhaus also very close – but, please allow me to say, some of these restaurants looked a bit ‘too fast designed’– and sometimes lacked of atmosphere though.

As easy as the way to Munich has been by car, the more adventurous the way back to Berlin turned out to be by train. Storm Herwart has been responsible for some changes of travel plans… In the morning, still in bed, internet told me ‘train goes to Berlin’. Super. In the train, later,
Today this train will end in Leipzig.’ Well, OK, but no recommendations how to continue… So, after checking the busses and traffic on the motorway, clear decision: better to rent a car. Oh, suddenly a short stop on track: ‘We will continue as soon as I have the written order.’ Written order? Delivered by a mounted messenger? Oha. For a moment, I have not been quiet sure if I really had taken the right train… or did I happen to sit in a police train or one of the army instead? After an announcement that the train will finally go to Berlin (yeah!), I was able to cancel the rented car. After a short stop in Leipzig (which in the end turned out to last approximately an hour) the journey continued. And in Berlin: ‘This train will end at Südkreuz station today.’ Aha.
Another hurdle. Well. Up to the central platform, down to the announced platform, stepping right
into the train, only to hear: ‘Please change train, the train on platform 7 will go to Berlin main station.’ Do not expect the moving stairs working…

Finally, only half an hour later than expected I arrived at my appointment, hey, really good, under these circumstances, DB – and could collect Rusty again.

And Rusty, happy to see me again – kisses, kisses, baci – Rusty is really a sweet Bazi
(the Bavarians have the final say though…).

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